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7 Mistakes First-Timers Make with Camino de Santiago Bike Rental (And How to Avoid Them)

2/4/2026

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So you've decided to cycle the Camino de Santiago. Amazing choice. There's nothing quite like pedaling through ancient villages, climbing misty mountain passes, and rolling into Santiago de Compostela with burning legs and a full heart.

But here's the thing. Your Camino de Santiago bike rental can make or break this adventure. Get it right, and you'll have the journey of a lifetime. Get it wrong, and you'll spend 800 km cursing every pothole and praying for the finish line.

We've helped thousands of cyclists tackle the Camino over the years. And we've seen the same mistakes pop up again and again. The good news? They're all completely avoidable.

Let's break down the seven biggest blunders first-timers make with bicycle hire Spain, and exactly how you can sidestep them.

Table of Contents

  • 7 Mistakes First-Timers Make with Camino de Santiago Bike Rental (And How to Avoid Them)
    • Mistake #1: Waiting Too Long to Book Your Bike
    • Mistake #2: Choosing the Wrong Type of Bike
    • Mistake #3: Ignoring Bike Size and Fit
    • Mistake #4: Underestimating How Weight Affects Your Ride
    • Mistake #5: Renting an E-Bike Without Thinking About Charging
    • Mistake #6: Packing Way Too Much Stuff
    • Mistake #7: Not Checking Accommodation Bike Policies
    • Set Yourself Up for Success
    • Don't Miss

 

Mistake #1: Waiting Too Long to Book Your Bike

This one catches people off guard every single year.

You figure you'll sort out your bicycle rental Spain a few days before you fly out. No big deal, right? Wrong. Peak Camino season runs from April through September, and quality bikes disappear fast. Really fast.

How to avoid it: Book at least two weeks in advance. Three to four weeks is even better during high season. This gives your rental provider time to prepare your bike, arrange delivery to your starting point, and handle any special requests.

Early booking also means you actually get the bike you want, not whatever's left in the shed.

Mistake #2: Choosing the Wrong Type of Bike

Not all bikes are created equal. And the Camino isn't your local bike path.

We're talking 800+ kilometers of mixed terrain. Gravel tracks. Rocky sections. Potholes that could swallow a small dog. Throw in some steep climbs and unpredictable weather, and your bike choice suddenly matters a lot.

Cyclists on Scenic Rural Path

How to avoid it: Be honest about your experience level and the route conditions. A sleek road bike looks great but won't handle the rougher Camino sections. A heavy mountain bike might be overkill for the flatter Portuguese coastal route.

For most Camino cyclists, a quality touring bike or gravel bike hits the sweet spot. Sturdy enough for rough terrain, comfortable enough for long days in the saddle. If you're unsure, talk to your rental provider. They know these routes inside out.

Mistake #3: Ignoring Bike Size and Fit

Here's a scenario we see too often. Someone books a bike based on a vague height estimate, picks it up on day one, and spends the next two weeks with knee pain, back aches, or numb hands.

Riding an ill-fitted bike for 800 km isn't just uncomfortable. It can genuinely injure you.

How to avoid it: Take bike sizing seriously during the booking process. Provide accurate measurements. And when your bike arrives, spend ten minutes checking the fit before you start riding.

Saddle height, handlebar reach, stem angle, small adjustments make a massive difference over long distances. A good rental service will ensure your bike is properly set up for your body. Don't be shy about asking for tweaks.

Cyclist on Historic Stone Bridge in Spanish Village

Mistake #4: Underestimating How Weight Affects Your Ride

That lightweight bike you test-rode at home? It's going to feel completely different loaded with panniers, water bottles, spare tubes, and everything else you need for the Camino.

First-timers often expect to maintain their usual pace. Then reality hits. Hard.

How to avoid it: Adjust your expectations before you start. A loaded touring bike is slower, less nimble, and requires more effort on climbs. That's just physics.

Plan shorter daily distances than you might on an unloaded bike. Build in buffer time. And whatever you do, don't strap a heavy rucksack to your back. It'll destroy your shoulders and throw off your balance. Use proper panniers and bike racks instead.

Mistake #5: Renting an E-Bike Without Thinking About Charging

E-bikes are brilliant for the Camino. They take the sting out of those brutal climbs and let you enjoy the scenery instead of suffering through it. But there's a catch many first-timers miss.

How are you going to charge the battery overnight?

Many albergues and hostels don't allow bikes in rooms. So if your e-bike has a fixed battery, you've got a problem. Either you wheel your entire bike up three flights of stairs, or you hope no one steals your battery while it charges in the hallway.

How to avoid it: Rent an e-bike with a removable battery. Simple as that. You pop the battery off, carry it to your room, plug it in overnight, and you're good to go in the morning. When you're researching Camino de Santiago bike rental options, this should be non-negotiable.

For more details on managing battery range across long tours, check out our complete guide to e-bike battery range.

Cyclist Stamping Camino Passport

Mistake #6: Packing Way Too Much Stuff

Everyone does this the first time. You lay out everything you think you'll need, carefully pack it all, then realize on day two that you've brought three times more than necessary.

Extra weight means extra effort. Every unnecessary gram drags on you kilometer after kilometer.

How to avoid it: Go through your packing list three times. Each time, ask yourself: "Will I actually use this?" If the answer isn't a clear yes, leave it behind.

Focus on essentials: cycling clothes, basic repair kit, minimal toiletries, one set of off-bike clothes. That's really it. You can buy anything else you need along the way. Spanish villages have shops. You won't be cycling through the wilderness.

Some cyclists also take advantage of luggage transfer services so they can ride light during the day. It's worth considering if comfort is a priority.

Mistake #7: Not Checking Accommodation Bike Policies

You've just finished a long day of cycling. You're tired, hungry, and desperate for a shower. You roll up to your pre-booked albergue and discover they have nowhere to store your bike. Or worse, they won't allow bikes at all.

This happens more than you'd think.

How to avoid it: Contact accommodations ahead of time and ask specifically about bike storage. Can they store your bike securely overnight? Is there a locked room or courtyard? Will you need to bring your bike (or battery) to your room?

Planning ahead takes five minutes per accommodation. It saves hours of stress and frantic rebooking on the road.

Alto del Perdón Rest Stop

Set Yourself Up for Success

The Camino de Santiago is one of the world's great cycling adventures. Ancient history, stunning landscapes, incredible food, and that sense of accomplishment when you finally reach the cathedral.

But the difference between a magical journey and a miserable slog often comes down to preparation. The right bicycle rental Spain partner handles the logistics so you can focus on the experience.

At Cycling Rentals, we've spent years perfecting our Camino service. Quality bikes maintained to the highest standards. Expert route knowledge from people who've actually ridden these paths. Delivery straight to your starting point. And support when you need it.

Ready to do this right? Check out our Camino 14-Day Touring Pack: everything you need for an unforgettable pilgrimage on two wheels.


Don't Miss

Looking for more cycling inspiration? These posts will help you plan your perfect trip:

  • E-Bike Touring: The Ultimate Guide to Bikepacking on Electric Bikes
  • E-Bike Battery Range for Touring: The Complete Guide
  • Camino Portugués Bike Tour

 

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How to Choose the Best Bike for Your Camino de Santiago Adventure

12/28/2025

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Planning your Camino de Santiago bike adventure but feeling overwhelmed by bike choices? You're not alone. With several hundred kilometers of varied terrain ahead, choosing the wrong bike can turn your spiritual journey into a mechanical nightmare.

If you want to know how to choose the best bike for your Camino de Santiago adventure, the truth is, there's no single "best" bike for every pilgrim.

Your ideal ride depends on your chosen route, fitness level, and how much gear you're carrying. But don't worry: we've walked (and cycled!) this path before, and I'm here to break down exactly what works best for which route! 

Table of Contents

  •  
  • Mountain Bikes: The All-Terrain Champions
  • Gravel Bikes: The Speed-Comfort Balance
  • Hybrid / Trekking Bikes
  • Electric Bikes: The Great Equalizer
  • Route-Specific Recommendations
  • Your Fitness Level Matters
  • Essential Equipment Considerations
  • Making Your Decision

Mountain Bikes: The All-Terrain Champions

Mountain bikes excel on the Camino's dirt trails, ancient cobbles and forest tracks. If you're tackling technical sections with rocky terrain and steep climbs, a hardtail mountain bike gives you the grip and control you need. If you're a less experienced cyclist, mountain bikes offer a more forgiving ride on the Camino's variable terrain.

Mountain bike for Camino rental

Best for: Camino Frances technical sections, Camino del Norte, mixed terrain routes, Less experienced riders.

Pros:

  • Handle rocks, roots, and rough trails with ease
  • Reliable braking on steep descents
  • Comfortable upright riding position
  • Durable frame can handle panniers and gear

Cons:

  • Slower on paved sections
  • Heavier than other options
  • Requires more effort on long flat stretches

For most Camino routes, a hardtail model works better than full suspension. You'll carry your bike over impassable sections, so lighter is definitely better. Look for wide range gears, hydraulic disk brakes, sturdy rack mounting and comfortabel geometry for comfortable and trouble free riding in varied conditions.

Gravel Bikes: The Speed-Comfort Balance

Gravel bikes offer the sweet spot between mountain bike capability and road bike speed. They're becoming increasingly popular among Camino cyclists who want to cover ground efficiently without sacrificing comfort on unpaved sections.

Gravel bike for Camino de Santiago

Best for: Mixed surface routes, cyclists with minimal luggage, more experienced riders.

Pros:

  • Faster than mountain bikes on varied terrain
  • Lighter weight for easier handling
  • Drop handlebars offer multiple hand positions
  • Good tire clearance for wider, more comfortable tires

Cons:

  • Less capable on very technical terrain
  • Require more cycling experience
  • Limited gear carrying capacity

If you're planning to travel light with just 7-8 kilos of gear, a gravel bike could be your perfect companion. They shine on routes like the Via de la Plata with its wide dirt roads and minimal elevation changes.

Hybrid / Trekking Bikes

If you want comfort, control, and cargo space without drama, then Hybrid / trekking bikes deliver the perfect balance for your Camino bike tour. You sit upright, run wider tires, and bolt on racks with ease. Ride dirt paths, village cobbles, and long tarmac links without second guessing your line. Designed for long distance cyclists, these bikes put comfort and control first.

Hybrid trekking bicycle for Camino cycling

Look for 38–50 mm tires, disc brakes, and wide-range gears (1x to 3x transmission can work fine as long as the rear cassette is wide range). Any quality trekking frame can take rear pannier racks (and often front), so carrying 10 to 30 kg of kit stays stable. A suspension fork or suspension seatpost adds comfort; a rigid fork keeps weight and maintenance down.

I also recommend, for maximum comfort and convenience, that you opt for men's or lady's specific frame, as other types of bicycle are usually more focused on function or performance rather than the rider!

Best for: Camino Frances main path with easy detours, Camino Portuguese (central and coastal), Via de la Plata, comfort-first riders carrying panniers.

Pros:

  • Upright position reduces fatigue and neck / hand strain
  • Stable and confidence-inspiring on dirt, gravel, cobbles, and wet boardwalks
  • Wide tires (38–50 mm) add grip, comfort, and puncture protection
  • Riser bars and simple controls feel intuitive from day one
  • Wide gearing makes steep climbs manageable even when loaded

Cons:

  • Heavier and slower than gravel bikes on smooth asphalt
  • Not ideal for very rocky or technical sections (e.g., Foncebadon trail descent)
  • Suspension forks add weight and complexity if not needed
  • Less aerodynamic on long, windy road stretches

If you value an easy, low-hassle Camino with room for your gear, choose a hybrid / trekking bike. You keep your independence, ride at your pace, and finish each day more relaxed.

Electric Bikes: The Great Equalizer

Electric bikes are game-changers for the Camino, especially if you're concerned about fitness levels or want to complete very long stages with less effort. They're perfect for groups with mixed abilities, helping everyone stay together regardless of experience.

Ebike for Camino de Santiago

Best for: Mixed fitness groups, longer daily distances, less active cyclists.

Pros:

  • Extend your daily range significantly
  • Level the playing field in groups
  • Make steep climbs manageable
  • Reduce fatigue on multi-day journeys

Cons:

  • Battery life may limit very long stages
  • More expensive to rent
  • Require charging infrastructure planning

For the Camino, choose a mountain-specific ebike rather than an urban or road type ebike. You'll prefer the robust build and wider tires for the mixed terrain ahead.

Route-Specific Recommendations

Not all Camino routes are created equal. Here's what works best for each major route:

Camino Frances: Your classic choice demands a gravel, trekking or hardtail mountain bike. The wide tracks handle both, but expect technical sections near Foncebadon and el Acebo where mountain bikes have the edge.

Camino del Norte (Irun-Bilbao): Go mountain bike or don't go at all. This section features many hills and tricky terrain that remains challenging even with detours.

Camino del Norte (Bilbao-Santiago): Here's where gravel or trekking bikes shine. With 80% asphalt roads and few steep sections that are easily avoided, you can prioritize speed and comfort.

Via de la Plata: The flat, wide dirt roads through Spanish fields are perfect gravel bike territory. A light mountain bike works too, but you won't need the extra capability.

Camino Portuguese: The easiest terrain of all major routes. A gravel bike or trekking bike with slightly thicker tires handles the 250-kilometer Porto-Santiago journey beautifully - just don't forget the Cobbles!

Gravel bike on an unpaved road along the Camino de Santiago

Your Fitness Level Matters

Your bike choice depends heavily on your riding abilities and physical shape. Be honest with yourself: this isn't the time for optimistic assessments.

heroImage

Experienced cyclists with minimal luggage can handle more technical routes on hardtail mountain bikes or gravel bikes. You'll appreciate the efficiency and won't be overwhelmed by challenging terrain.

Recreational cyclists should lean toward comfort. A gravel bike or electric mountain bike gives you options without overwhelming you with unfamiliar technology.

New cyclists benefit most from electric assistance or choosing easier routes with trekking bikes. There's no shame at all in making your first Camino manageable and enjoyable rather than a writeoff! 

Essential Equipment Considerations

Your bike needs reliable brakes, comfortable seating, and a wide range of gears for Spain and Portugal's rolling hills and ancient cobbled roads. I strongly recommend you opt for durability and servicability (often only at small town bike shops) over top tier performance and light weight. Don't skimp on these fundamentals if you want to enjoy your Camino experience!

Tires: Keep them in perfect condition. Carry patches, spare tubes, and a portable pump. The Camino isn't the place to test tire longevity!

Maintenance: Have all moving parts checked and lubricated before starting. Your chain, derailleurs, and brake cables need to perform flawlessly for hundreds of kilometers.

Comfort: Never try unproven equipment on the Camino - or any other long distance ride! Use saddles, grips, and pedals you're confident with. Untested accessories can totally ruin your bike tour exprience.

Touring bikes on the Camino de Santiago

If you want the full Camino bike tour packing checklist, you can check out our detailed article on that right here!

Making Your Decision

Start with your route choice, then consider your fitness and experience level. If you're still unsure, err on the side of capability and comfort over performance: you'd rather have a bike that handles everything easily and reliably than struggle with terrain challenges - or break some high end component that you cannot replace en-route!

Ready to turn your Camino dreams into reality? Our Camino cycling holidays include quality bike rentals matched to your chosen route, plus all the support gear you need for a successful journey.

We've helped hundreds of pilgrims choose the perfect bike for their Camino adventure. Whether you need an electric bike for extra assistance or a gravel bike for versatile performance, we'll match you with the right equipment for your specific route and experience level.

Don't let bike choice become another source of pre-journey stress. Contact us and let our Camino cycling experts help you make the perfect choice for your adventure!

Buen Camino!

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The Camino de Santiago: An Epic Bike Tour for the Adventurous Cyclist

3/8/2022

3 Comments

 

Cycling is one of the best ways to see the world. Many people who have done the Camino de Santiago in Spain would agree. The Camino de Santiago, which can be translated as "the Way of St. James," is a pilgrimage route that stretches across most of northern Spain. It's a popular destination for cyclists and hikers alike - and someone with a love for long-distance biking won't want to miss it!

In this article, we'll give you all the information you need to plan your own bike tour on the Camino de Santiago. We'll talk about what you can expect and how to plan your trip so that you don't feel overwhelmed by this epic journey. Don't wait any longer; read on to learn how to take on cycling's ultimate challenge!

Table of Contents

  • The Camino de Santiago
  • Planning your trip
  • What to pack
  • Where to stay (how much it will cost)
  • What to eat/drink
  • Safety tips for cycling on the Camino de Santiago
  • Cycling tips for your Camino bike tour
  • Important information while you're cycling on the Camino de Santiago
  • Conclusion

 

The Camino de Santiago

The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage route that traditionally goes from France to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain. There are in fact many other variants, but the Camino Francés remains one of the oldest on most popular routes. It has been an important site for Christians since the Middle Ages. The trail, which is about 800 km long, was used by medieval Christians on their way to Jerusalem. Today it's used by cyclists, hikers and other travelers who want to embark on a spiritual journey.

The route has traditionally been followed in stages, with pilgrims carrying a backpack with supplies including clothes and food. A more modern approach is to take some preparation at home as well as along the way.

Planning your trip

If you're still deciding if cycling on the Camino de Santiago is right for you, start by considering some of these questions:

  • When are you planning to go?
  • Do you want to bike the entire route or just sections of it?
  • Are there any other people going with you?
  • How are you getting there?
  • What are your expectations?
  • What's your budget like?
  • How much time do you think it will take to bike the route, and can that fit into your schedule?
  • What kind of experience do you hope to have on the Camino de Santiago?

Once you've answered some of these questions, it'll be easier for you to plan everything out. You'll know how long it will take and what type of experience you're looking for. You'll also be able to figure out which parts of the Camino de Santiago are better suited for biking than others. You don't want to spend hours on a long stretch of uphill biking if that's not what you wanted in the first place! And don't forget about accommodation! There are lots of different options available, depending on how much time and money you want to spend. If these thoughts have left your head spinning, don't worry! We'll cover all this information below so that it won't be such a hassle figuring out all the details as well.

What to pack

If you're cycling the Camino de Santiago, you'll need to invest in a few items before you leave. First, and most importantly, you'll need a bike! You can get a bike from a rental store, or you can buy one if you have the time to look for one. Next, you'll need some cycling gear. You should pack high-quality biking shorts and padded cycling gloves to avoid getting saddle sores and blisters. If your bike trip is going to be longer than five hours at a time (and most of them are), it's important that your shoes are good quality so they don't wear down too fast.

You'll also want to pack other basic necessities like water bottles, sunscreen and lip balm. And while we're on the topic of what not to forget--don't forget your phone charger! It's important that your phone is fully charged at all times so that if anything happens, you won't be left without help. The Camino de Santiago isn't always easy--you should be prepared for anything!

Where to stay (how much it will cost)

When you're planning to travel by bike, it's important to know where you'll be sleeping. Luckily, accommodations on the Camino de Santiago are plentiful and reasonably priced.

You can find hotels for around €30 a night in towns along the route--and sometimes even cheaper. If you're looking for more of an authentic experience, there are albergues for €6-10 per night that are usually maintained by volunteers. These albergues provide shelter and basic amenities like WiFi, breakfast, and dinner (complimentary or not).

What to eat/drink

One of the most difficult parts of any bike tour is food and drink. You can't just stop at a restaurant or store when you're on the Camino de Santiago. Pack your bags with plenty of high-energy snacks to avoid getting off your bike to search for food.

The best choice is protein bars, nuts, dried fruit, and even cereal bars. This should be enough to keep you going until you reach the next town or village.

Drinks are also important to bring on a bike tour! If you're not bringing water with you, buy bottled water from a store in towns as needed.

Another tip: bring plenty of electrolytes to prevent dehydration and muscle cramps during your cycling journey! Have an electrolyte drink handy in order to replace fluids and minerals lost through sweat.

Safety tips for cycling on the Camino de Santiago

The Camino de Santiago is a challenging adventure for even the most experienced cyclist. It's important to plan ahead and make sure you're prepared for all the conditions you might face.

- Research the terrain: The terrain along the Camino de Santiago varies from flat to mountainous, but there are some difficult stretches with steep slopes and mountain passes. Even if you plan to ride on a road or touring bike, not a mountain bike - you'll have to cycle through small villages and towns over some larger cobblestone streets. If you raide along the actual trail, be aware that walking pilgrims have priority, and some sections are not appropriate for cyclists at all.

- Pack light: You won't need many supplies on this trip; pack only what you'll need to get through the day. Make sure your water bottle is full before heading out each morning. In terms of clothing, it's best to dress in layers so that you can adapt when the weather changes throughout the day.

- Keep an eye on your belongings: Be cautious about where you store your bags when resting at albergues; never leave them unattended in public areas, as sadly, there are professional theives who have operated along the Camino since the very earliest times!

- Wear a helmet at all times: Always wear your helmet! They're essential safety gear that can protect you if anything happens. You'll also want to carry some basic first aid supplies like bandages, antibiotic cream, and painkillers in case of an accident or injury.

Cycling tips for your Camino bike tour

If you're planning to cycle the Camino de Santiago on your own, here are a few tips that will make your trip much more enjoyable:

-Pack a map and a navigation device device such as a smartphone or GPS. The route is well marked, but you'll want to be able to find your way without relying on signs every step of the way.

-Dress appropriately. If you go during the summer months, wear light clothing and sunscreen. For cooler seasons, pack warmer clothes like long underwear, tights and wool socks. And don't forget to use layers, rather than heavy jackets and the like.

-Plan for plenty of rest stops and snacks. You'll need to refuel often on this long journey!

-Bring an ample supply of food and water. You don't want to run out of anything important during your trip!

-Carry cash for your meals along the way. Most restaurants take credit cards or traveler's checks, but some do not accept them at all--and many require cash only!

Important information while you're cycling on the Camino de Santiago

Cycling on the Camino de Santiago is a journey for the adventurous cyclist. You'll be biking for about 6 days along a variety of terrains, but you'll also encounter varying climates. Depending on the time of year, you may go from hot to cold weather and vice versa. Make sure you pack accordingly!

Another important thing to keep in mind while planning your trip on the Camino de Santiago is how long it will take to get there (and back). The average cyclist can expect to bike an average of 40 kilometers per day, which means it could take up to a month to complete the entire journey! Of course, this is just an estimate based on people who are cycling at an average pace; if you're a faster rider, then it would be possible for you to cycle an average 60 to 80 km a day and finish in less than 15 days.

Conclusion

The Camino de Santiago is a journey most cyclist have yearned to take at least once in their lifetime. If you're an experienced cyclist and want to take on a challenge, the Camino de Santiago is for you. Plan your bike tour of the Camino de Santiago today and enjoy the journey!

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Camino de Santiago - The adventure of a life time!

1/3/2022

2 Comments

 

By Scott Sparrow

My son graduated from high school in 2021 and before he started his fist year of college at Brigham Young University (BYU), we set out on an epic adventure. ​While no great adventure is without challenges, ours almost never got off the ground.
Camino de Santiago bike tour with Cycling Rentals in Spain
Cycling along the Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage trail in Spain by Scott Sparrow
We bought plane tickets for the day after he graduated, June 1st, and showed up at the airport in Texas, packs on our backs, bound for Spain. Only to find Spain closed to visitors from the United States due to COVID 19 concerns. So, we climbed back in the car, heads down, dejected.
My first call was not to my wife or to my employer, but to Cycling Rentals. “Please tell me you haven’t shipped the bikes yet,” I pleaded.” My fear was confirmed. “We shipped them this morning. Is there a problem?” I explained that our trip would be postponed because of the pandemic.

​Over the next month we rearranged work schedules, albergue reservations, train tickets, and cycling rentals. Then finally, one month to the day after our first attempt, my son flew from Utah and I from Texas. We met in the airport, this time actually making our first connection in route to Spain.
Planes, trains, and cars later, we arrived in Saint Jean, France, where our bikes awaited us. We road for the next 7 days, covering close to 500 kilometers along the famed Camino de Santiago. We then dropped off the bikes and hiked the remaining distance into Santiago.

​In total, we trekked 779 km over 14 days. It was exhilarating, it was gorgeous, it was exhausting, It was the adventure of a life time!
Share your story too!
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Bike Touring Story Part Two – Getting out of Burgos

9/7/2021

1 Comment

 

Having nursed our injured team member and worried over her likely journey from here, we understood she was in excellent hands, so of course we were itching to get back on the bikes to finish our journey.

That meant leaving Burgos. It wasn’t a place with good memories so we weren’t going to hang about even for a few more hours after her husband arrived. It was bucketing down rain, but we didn’t care. On the bikes and away sometime late-afternoon, with no idea where we might end up that day.

 

Leaving Burgos

I don’t remember how long we rode for but my memory is that it wasn’t very long before we decided the rain was too much and wasn’t looking like easing any time soon, so we decided to take shelter. Well back in 2003, information on hostels was very scant. We were aware there was one nearby, but had no idea what it was like or how to gain access to it.

Camino cyclist with pilgrim walkers on Camino de Santiago


 

Still bucketing down rain, we located the locked albergue with not a soul around. It was a very desolate small 2 storey building which was in degrees of disrepair in a fairly residential area. Not sure how we got the key, (I think by talking to locals with our very limited Spanish) but we got in drenched and dripping to a small room with mattresses stacked in a corner and not much else. I think we might have been the only ones who have ever used it, but we were grateful for it at the time.

It wasn’t a place with good memories so we weren’t going to hang about even for a few more hours

In the morning we reflected that in fact our mad desire to get out of Burgos had been thwarted as we were still only on the outskirts of the city!! We were also as you can imagine, a little nervous about taking to the busy highways and agreed to continue on the “true” path, only deviating to roads when they were parallel to it and not heavy with traffic.

 

Waking to a clear sky, we packed and planned to head off for a very early start. We had been told to leave the key inside and lock the door as we left, so we dutifully did that and mounted up when we realised a helmet was still inside behind the locked door!

 

Throwing ideas around, riding back into Burgos to buy a new one was not on the top of the list as we both wanted to get as far away as we could from this city.  Having exhausted most options in our minds, we scouted around the perimeter and located an opening window on the upper level. Hazardous you might think, but we were pretty desperate. Access gained and helmet retrieved and despite our desire to have an early start, at least we could now escape Burgos!

 

The first part of the road was fine until Rabe de las Calzadas but the trail then took us through fields with a very soft and pitted surface. As you can imagine, rain does wonders for this and bicycles. After trying to navigate sections with 3 or 4 inches of mud, it was walking time for me. I had ridden ahead and couldn’t see my travel companion behind me but figured she would likely be in the same boat. Ever tried pushing a heavily laden bike through mud? It was a tedious 8km into Hornillos del Camino.

bike touring story -getting out of burgos - bicycle in mud


 

At the entrance to the village a farmer saw my plight and offered me a hose to remove the mud. Making headway with the cleaning I looked up to see a bike yet another Camino angel, offered to take her and the bike on his truck the next morning to get it fixed - being carried between two people, one being a gallant young man with a huge backpack. My first thought was, oh how lovely, that did look much easier than my pushing my touring bicycle through the mud.

yet another Camino angel, offered to take her and the bike on his truck the next morning to get it fixed

Putting the bike down I learned it hadn’t been a simple exercise at all. She had been endeavouring to ride through the mud rather than push it and a rock lodged itself and snapped her derailleur. She had tried carrying it on her own through the slippery mud, when, as the Camino always does, a saviour was provided in a moment of need. The closest place for any possibility of repair was, yes, you guessed it, Burgos!!

broken bicycle derailleur on the Camino de Santiago


 

We both thought at that point that this was too hard and perhaps the cosmos was trying to tell us something. But no, the hospitalero, yet another Camino angel, offered to take her and the bike on his truck the next morning to get it fixed. So back she went to Burgos.

 

Leaving Burgos - again!

Cycling on the Camino de Santiago in Spain


 

Three days later and only about 20km traveled, we truly escaped Burgos. In high spirits and fine weather we made sure each day from here on that we would seek local advice on the trail’s suitability for bikes and when it wasn’t we took to the road. This worked well and we had about 10 days of absolutely glorious riding through the plains of the meseta, Leon and Astorga until we came to O’Cebreiro. But that is another story...

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