You know that sinking feeling. You’re halfway to the airport, or maybe already home, when it hits you. You left your favorite pair of gloves, your expensive cycling shoes, or your trusty GPS unit in a hotel drawer hundreds of miles away.

It happens to the best of us. Whether you’re finishing a self-guided bike tour across Spain or coming back from a winter getaway, forgetting gear is a universal traveler’s tax. But as I recently discovered, that tax doesn't have to cost you a fortune.

I recently left my high-end ski gloves in Poland. I’m based in Portugal, and I really didn't want to lose them. They’re great gloves, but they aren't "pay €100 for shipping" great. That, however, was exactly the quote I got from one of the world's most famous logistics brands.

Then I found a better way.

The €80 Difference: My Real-World Story

When I realized my gloves were still in Poland, I did what most people do. I went to a major international courier’s website. I typed in the dimensions of a small padded envelope and the weight (hardly anything). The price? Nearly €100.

At that price, I might as well have bought a new pair. It felt like a rip-off. They were charging me "emergency corporate document" prices for a simple pair of gloves.

I almost gave up. But as someone who runs a business built on hassle-free bike hire, I knew there had to be a more efficient solution. I started digging and found Eurosender.

The result? The exact same door-to-door service, handled by a professional courier, for under €20. I saved €80 with five minutes of clicking. My gloves arrived at my door in Portugal a few days later, safe and sound.

Why Is the "Big Brand" Quote So High?

You might wonder why a direct quote is so expensive. Big logistics companies prioritize their contract holders: the massive corporations shipping thousands of items a day. If you’re just an individual with a one-off package, you’re paying the highest possible retail rate.

They aren't looking for your business. They’re looking for the business of companies that ship 500 boxes a day.

The Eurosender Hack: How It Works

Eurosender doesn't actually own the vans or the planes. They are a logistics broker. They buy shipping volume in massive quantities from the big names you already know (like DHL, UPS, and GLS) and then pass those wholesale savings on to you.

Think of it like booking a hotel through a major travel site instead of calling the front desk. Because they aggregate thousands of small shipments like mine, they get the "bulk" price that we can't get on our own.

For you, the experience is seamless. You book on their site, and a professional driver from a reputable brand shows up at the door to collect your package. It’s the same service, just a vastly different price tag.

By Cyclists, For Cyclists: Why You Need This

At Cycling Rentals, we specialize in making logistics disappear. We deliver bikes to your hotel and pick them up when you're done. We want you to focus on the ride, not the paperwork. But even with the best planning, things happen.

Here is why having a low-cost shipping solution in your back pocket is a game-changer for your next trip:

1. The "I Forgot My Pedals" Scenario

You’ve just finished a magnificent Camino de Santiago bike tour. You pack your bags, head to the airport, and realize your high-end Clipless pedals are still attached to the rental bike. Instead of paying a fortune to have the hotel send them, or losing them entirely, you can arrange a cheap Eurosender pickup.

2. The Souvenir Problem

You’re cycling through the Basque Country and find a local artisan piece or several bottles of incredible wine you just have to have. You don't want to carry that extra weight over the next mountain range.

With a service like this, you can box up your finds at a local post office or hotel, and ship them directly to your home for the price of a few tapas.

3. Shipping Gear Ahead

Maybe you’re doing a multi-leg trip. You have your heavy winter gear for a week in the mountains, but then you're heading to the coast for a week of cycling in Sintra. You don't need the heavy jackets anymore. Box them up and send them home or to your final destination for less €€.

How to Save Your Gear (and Your Cash)

If you find yourself needing to move a small package across Europe, don't just settle for the first quote you see. Follow these steps:

1. Get the dimensions: Even for small items, knowing the weight and box size ensures an accurate price.
2. Use the platform: Head to Eurosender and put in your details. You’ll get an instant quote.
3. Check the "Standard" option: For things like gloves or clothing, you don't need "Express 9 AM" delivery. The standard service is reliable and much cheaper.
4. Print your label: Usually, you’ll receive a digital label. Print it out and tape it securely to your box.
5. Relax: A courier will come to your location (hotel, office, or home). You don’t even have to find a post office.

Total Peace of Mind

At the end of the day, travel should be about the experience, not the stress of logistics. We provide the best bicycles and accessories so you can explore Spain and Portugal with confidence. Knowing there's an afforable, reliable way to get your gear home if things go sideways just adds another layer of security to your adventure.

Don't let a "Big Brand" courier quote ruin your post-trip high. There is always a smarter way to move your gear.

Ready to plan your next hassle-free adventure?
Check out our Self-Guided Touring Packs and let us handle the heavy lifting while you enjoy the ride.

Don't Miss

• The Ultimate Guide to Cycling the Camino de Santiago
• How to Choose the Right Touring Pack for Portugal
• Top 5 Must-Have Bicycle Accessories for Your Next Trip

Let’s talk about the elephant in the room, or rather, the drop-bar bike in the room. Please give me a little latitude here for my op-ed piece as someone who has ridden drop and flat bars for many years!

If you’ve spent five minutes on Instagram lately, you’d think the gravel bike was the only way to travel. They look sleek, they’re light, and they have that "adventure" aesthetic that screams, "I drink artisanal coffee in the woods."

But here’s a truth from someone who lives and breathes Iberian trails: when the going gets tough, the 29er hardtail mountain bike is still the undisputed king.

Don’t get me wrong. I love a good gravel bike. They’re fast on the flats and great for light touring - and one of our most popular bike rental models! But when you’re planning a multi-day bike-packing epic through the rugged landscapes of Spain and Portugal, you need a tool more than a fashion statement.

If you’re looking for a bicycle rental in Spain or planning to bike rent in Portugal, you’re probably facing this exact dilemma. Let’s break down why the big wheels and flat (or riser) bars are your best friends on the trail.

 

The Comfort Factor: Suspension is Your Spine’s Best Friend

You’re three days into your trip. Your legs are tired, and you’ve just hit a 10-kilometer stretch of "Roman road" in Portugal, which is basically a polite term for a pile of ancient, ankle-snapping boulders.

On a gravel bike, even with our wider tires, you’re feeling every single vibration through your wrists and spine. On a 29er hardtail, you have an additional 100mm of travel up front to soak up the abuse.

For me, it’s the difference between ending my day with a beer and a smile, or ending it with a bottle of ibuprofen and a ringing in my writs!

The 29-inch mtb tires do also play a big role here. Their "angle of attack" is shallower, meaning they roll over obstacles rather than falling into them. This isn't just about comfort; it's about energy conservation. Every bump your bike absorbs is energy you don't have to spend.

Gearing: When "Steep" Becomes "Impossible"

Spain and Portugal are not flat. If you’re looking into a bike rental for the Camino de Santiago, you’re going to encounter some serious elevation. The climbs in the Galician hills or the Sierras are no joke, especially when your bike is loaded down with 15kg+ of gear.

While our gravel bikes do come with 11-45 T "adventure" gearing, suitable for getting up most heavy grade climbs on the saddle - rather than on the pedals, I don't mind sacrificing sacrificing some top end speed for super low ratios, so I can just spin my way up a cobbled climb at the end of a tough day!

For many of us mortals, a mountain bike’s "granny gear" is a literal lifesaver. Being able to sit and spin up a 15% grade instead of grinding your knees into dust is what keeps the trip fun.

Stability Under Load

Have you ever tried to ride a lightweight gravel bike with a full set of panniers and a handlebar bag? It can get twitchy. Fast.

A hardtail mountain bike is built for stability. The geometry is longer, the wheelbase is wider, and the flat bars give you significantly more leverage.

When you’re descending a loose, gravelly track in the heat of a Spanish afternoon, you want to feel in control. You don't want the bike to decide which way it’s going; you want to tell it.

The "Iberian Factor": Why Our Terrain Demands More

If you were bikepacking across the flat plains of the Netherlands, sure, bring the gravel bike. But bicycle rental in Portugal or bike hire in Spain usually means dealing with a variety of surfaces in a single hour.

You might start on smooth asphalt, transition to a dusty tractor path, hit some sand, and finish on a cobbled climb into a faraway village.

For me, the 29er is the ultimate "do-it-all" machine for this. Its wider tires (we offer 2.25" tires for a balance between easy rolling and trail ready grip) offer a footprint that keeps you floating over sand and gripping on loose corners.

For these reasons, when you look at our Camino 14-day touring pack, you’ll see we also offer our 29er mountain bikes. And based on many years of riding the Camino, 29er is still my top choice today!

Flat Bars vs. Drop Bars: The Real Estate Debate

Bikepacking is all about where you put your stuff. Gravel bikes with drop bars have limited space between the hoods for a handlebar bag. You often have to choose between gear and your hand positions.

Flat bars on an MTB give you massive amounts of "real estate." You can mount a huge dry bag, your GPS, a light, and even a snack pouch without it feeling cramped. Plus, the upright riding position gives you a much better view of the stunning landscapes: and the goats. You’ll see a lot of goats.

BUT: here I do concede, the ability to shift your hands from bar to hoods is definitely a plus on longer rides!

The Versatility of the Modern 29er

Wait, what about speed? I hear you. "But Martin, aren't MTBs slow on the road?"

Maybe 15 years ago. Modern 29ers with fast-rolling tires are surprisingly efficient - plus, when you’re loaded with gear, you’re not going to be breaking any land speed records anyway.

I still think the minor loss in aerodynamic efficiency on the road is a very small price to pay for the massive gain in comfort and capability once the pavement ends...

If you’re still worried about efficiency, you might even consider an electric bike for touring. It gives you the best of both worlds: the capability of an MTB with the "legs" of a pro.

Why Renting Beats Bringing Your Own

I get it: you love your bike. But flying with a bike box is a nightmare. It’s expensive, stressful, and there’s a 50% chance your derailleur will arrive looking like a pretzel.

When you opt for bike rent in Portugal or bike rental in Spain through us, you get a professionally maintained, high-spec 29er delivered right to your start point. We handle the logistics so you can focus on the riding. We even provide the accessories you need to make the trip a success.

The Verdict

If your route is 80% paved or hard-pack gravel, the gravel bike is a joy and the big winner. But how many adventures actually stay on the smooth path?

The 29er hardtail is the "SUV" of the bike world. It’s comfortable, it’s stable, it climbs like a goat, and it doesn't care if the trail gets ugly. In the unpredictable, beautiful, and sometimes brutal terrain of the Iberian Peninsula, the MTB isn't just a choice: it's the smart choice IMO!

Ready to test the theory? Grab one of our hardtail mountain bikes and see for yourself why I'm so biased toward the big wheels.

Ready to Roll?

At Cycling Rentals, we’re cyclists first. We’ve ridden these trails, we’ve climbed these mountains, and we’ve definitely sat at the bar at the end of the day comparing notes. We provide the gear we’d ride ourselves.

Whether you're tackling the Camino Portugues or exploring the hidden corners of the Alentejo, we have the right bike for you. No stress, no mechanical headaches: just you and the road (or the trail).

Book your bike now and let’s get your adventure started.

Don't Miss

• My Complete Guide to Bike Touring Portugal: What I Wish I’d Known Before My First Trip
• E-bike Touring: The Ultimate Guide to Bikepacking on Electric Bikes
• Choosing the Right Gear: Our Guide to Bicycle Accessories

 

You want a cycling holiday that offers everything. You want the salt air of the Atlantic on your face in the morning and the deep, quiet scent of an ancient beech forest by the afternoon. You want world-class cuisine that fuels your climbs and descents that make you feel like a kid again.

Welcome to the Basque Country.

We’ve just launched our newest 6-day self-guided Basque Country bike tour, and it’s a journey of contrasts. It’s a carefully curated loop that takes you from the glamorous crescent bay of San Sebastián into the rugged heart of the Navarre mountains and back again. We’ve handled the logistics, the route mapping, and the gear. All you have to do is enjoy the ride!

Why the Basque Country?

Planning a multi-day trip in a foreign country is a massive headache. You spend hours squinting at Google Maps, wondering if that "road" is actually a goat path or a high-speed motorway. You worry about luggage transfers and whether your rental bike will hold up on a mountain pass.

We get it. We’re cyclists too. That’s why we designed this tour to eliminate the "what-ifs." This route uses a mix of quiet mountain backroads and legendary "Vias Verdes" (Greenways): disused railway lines converted into smooth, car-free cycling paths. It’s the perfect balance of adventure and accessibility.

The Journey Begins: San Sebastián to the Mountains

Your adventure kicks off in San Sebastián (Donostia). It’s one of the most beautiful coastal towns in Spain, famous for its golden beaches and more Michelin stars per square meter than almost anywhere else on Earth. But you’re not here just to eat: though the pintxos are a mandatory part of the experience.

After loading up your rental bike, you’ll head inland. The transition is almost immediate. Within miles, the urban buzz fades, replaced by the rhythmic hum of tires on pavement. You’ll leave the coast behind and follow the Oria River valley, climbing gently toward the mountains of Navarre, and on your way to experience a remarkable blend of dramatic landscapes, quiet rural roads, and genuinely vibrant coastal culture.

As ever, the beauty of a self-guided cycling holiday is the freedom. If you see a tiny bakery in a stone-walled village, you are free to stop without holding up the group. If you want to take twenty photos of a medieval bridge, take them! You aren't chasing the ride leader; you’re chasing the horizon.

Into the Green: The Vias Verdes

The centerpiece of the inland leg is the Plazaola Greenway. This is cycling at its most serene. Imagine miles of shaded paths winding through lush, emerald-green forests. Because this was once a railway line, the gradients are never punishing. It’s a steady, manageable climb that rewards you with incredible views without burning out your quads.

The coolest part? Probably the tunnels. a series of atmospheric tunnels carved through the hills, including the impressive Uitzi Tunnel, the longest greenway tunnel in Europe!

The old train tunnels are lit and well-maintained, providing a damp, cool thrill as you transition from one valley to the next. You’ll feel like you’ve traveled back in time as you pass old station houses and remote farmsteads where life moves at the pace of the seasons.

As the route continues through the rolling farmland and traditional villages of northern Navarre, cyclists experience the authentic Basque countryside while tracing sections of the famous EuroVelo 1 Atlantic Route.

From the mountains, the tour gradually descends along the tranquil Bidasoa Greenway, following the river through lush valleys toward the coast. The scenery shifts once again as riders reach the colorful fishing town of Hondarribia and explore the nearby French Basque coast on a loop to the charming seaside town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

For those who want a bit more power on the climbs, we highly recommend consider an electric bike. It levels the playing field, letting you focus on the scenery rather than the sweat.

Crossing Borders and Climbing Cliffs

As you loop back toward the Atlantic, the landscape shifts again. You’ll tackle some of the most iconic cycling terrain in Northern Spain. This includes quiet mountain roads that snake through the Aralar Range, offering panoramic views of limestone peaks and deep valleys.

Eventually, the scent of the sea returns. You’ll reach the dramatic Atlantic cliffs near the border with France. One of the highlights is Mount Jaizkibel. If you follow professional cycling, you’ll recognize this name: it’s a staple of the Clásica de San Sebastián.

The climb is steady, the road surface is excellent, and the views over the Bay of Biscay are, quite frankly, spectacular and an unforgettable way to finish this  scenic cycling adventure!

The Gear That Gets You There

A great tour is only as good as the bike beneath you. We take our bike hire in Spain seriously. For the Basque Country, you need versatility. You need a bike that is fast on the tarmac but stable on the hard-packed gravel of the Greenways.

Your tour includes comfortable and reliable gravel bikes and robust touring setups. Every bike comes fully serviced and equipped with the bicycle accessories you need: panniers, repair kits, and our detailed turn-by-turn routes that ensure your best riding experience.

We’ve spent years figuring out which gear works and which gear fails. When you book with us, you’re getting the benefit of all those miles. We don’t just give you a bike; we give you a machine we’d be happy to ride ourselves.

Authentic Basque Culture

Between the rides, you’ll be staying in hand-picked accommodations that reflect the local character. Think historic stone houses with wooden balconies, tucked away in narrow village streets.

You’ll experience the unique Basque culture firsthand. It’s a place with its own language, its own traditions, and a fierce pride in its land. You’ll see it in the architecture, taste it in the local Txakoli wine (a slightly sparkling white wine poured from a height), and feel it in the quiet dignity of the mountain villages.

Cycling allows you to be a participant in the landscape, not just an observer. When you roll into a village square on a bike, you’re met with a different kind of welcome. You’ve earned your arrival.

Ready to Ride?

The Basque Country is waiting. This 6-day tour is designed for those who want to see the "hidden" Spain: the one away from the tourist traps and crowded resorts. It’s for the riders who love a good climb, a long descent, and a cold beer at the end of the day.

Don't spend another year talking about "the big trip." We’ve done the hard work of finding the best roads and the most scenic stops. All you need to do is show up and pedal.

Check out the full itinerary here: Basque Country 6-Day Self-Guided Tour

If you have questions about the terrain or which bike is right for you, contact us anytime. We love talking shop.

Don't Miss

• How to Choose the Right Bike for Your Camino Adventure
• The Ultimate Guide to Electric Bikes for Touring
• What to Pack for a Multi-Day Cycling Holiday in Spain

You feel the winter chill fading. The days are stretching out. Your legs are itching for a long ride. There is no better time to explore the Iberian Peninsula than spring. From the wild Atlantic cliffs of Portugal to the sun-drenched hills of Andalucia, the landscape is exploding into color.

Forget the grey slush and the heavy layers. Imagine yourself pedaling through a sea of red poppies. Picture the scent of orange blossoms thick in the air. This isn't just a bike ride; it is a sensory awakening.

Here are the best spring wildflower bike tours to book right now!

1. Alentejo: Golden Plains and Cork Oaks

Best Months: March – May

If you want big skies and that classic golden-Portuguese glow, head inland. Central Alentejo is all rolling plains, cork oak forests, and wide-open scenery that makes you want to keep pedaling just to see what is over the next rise.

This is the Alentejo at its most quietly spectacular. You ride through the Montado landscape of cork oaks and meadows, with spring color popping up all over the place. In the fields, look for the small yellow Hoop-petticoat Daffodil (Narcissus bulbocodium), purple Spanish lavender, and those bright red poppies that always seem to know where the best photo spots are.

What makes it special?

The rhythm is slower here, and that is exactly the point. You get peaceful roads, huge horizons, and heritage towns that feel properly rooted in the landscape. Évora brings Roman history and whitewashed charm. Monsaraz delivers hilltop drama and views for miles. It is the kind of ride that mixes easy beauty with a little time-travel.

The Flora: Keep an eye out for Hoop-petticoat Daffodils in open meadows, purple Spanish lavender along the roadside, and red poppies lighting up the spring grass.

2. Rota Vicentina: Cliffs, Coastline, and a Helpful Tailwind

Best Months: March – May

This is a different beast entirely. Start in Setúbal and ride south to Sagres on one of Portugal’s most dramatic coastal routes. The Atlantic is your constant companion. So are the sea cliffs, the salt air, and those tailwinds that make you feel suspiciously stronger than usual.

Our "7 Days Sunshine" package is built for this ride. You follow the coast with the ocean on your right, ticking off wild beaches, fishing villages, and cliff-top views that do not need a filter. It is rugged, bright, and wildly good fun.

What makes it special?

The scenery changes by the hour, but the mood stays the same: open, windswept, and seriously memorable. You ride through a landscape where spring flowers cling to the coast and the sea is never far away. It is one of those routes that makes snack stops last longer because the view keeps showing off.

The Flora: Watch for bright pink and yellow iceplants (Carpobrotus edulis), sea lavender, and thrift (Armeria) scattered along the coastal edges and cliff tops.

3. Andalucia: The Scent of Spring

Best Months: March – April

Andalucia in the spring is an assault on the senses: in the best way possible. By mid-March, the "Azahar" (orange blossom) begins to bloom. The scent in cities like Córdoba and Granada is intoxicating. It follows you out into the countryside.

Our Andalusian Adventure takes you from the Great Mosque of Córdoba to the Alhambra of Granada. You will cross the classic inland landscapes of southern Spain. Think rolling olive groves that stretch to the horizon and fields of red poppies lining the "Vias Verdes" (converted railway paths).

What makes it special?

This is the heart of traditional Spain. You will see the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada in the distance while you ride through warm, sun-lit valleys. The white villages (Pueblos Blancos) perched on the hillsides provide the perfect backdrop for your mid-day tapas stop.

The Flora: Beyond the orange blossoms, look for wild gladiolus and yellow gorse. In late April, the first sunflowers begin to peek out, though they peak later in the summer.

4. Basque Country: The Emerald Coast

Best Months: April – June

The Basque Country is famous for its lushness. All that rain in the winter pays off in a spectacular spring display. This region is a playground for serious cyclists, but our self-guided tours make it accessible for everyone.

Our Basque Country Self-Guided Tour starts in the culinary capital of San Sebastián. You will head inland through the Sierra de Aralar Nature Reserve before returning to the coast. The landscape is a deep, vibrant green that you won't find anywhere else in Spain.

What makes it special?

The variety is unmatched. One day you are riding through dense oak forests; the next, you are cresting a hill to see the blue Atlantic. The roads are exceptionally quiet, and the local food culture is world-class. After a day in the saddle, you’ll be rewarded with pintxos and local Txakoli wine.

The Flora: The hillsides are covered in yellow gorse and purple heather. In the forested valleys, you will find foxgloves and wild roses lining the trails.

5. Camino de Santiago: The Green Heart

Best Months: May – June

Cycling the Camino de Santiago is a bucket-list experience. In May and June, it is also a floral masterpiece. Whether you choose the French Way (Camino Francés) or the Portuguese Way (Camino Portugués), spring is the "sweet spot."

In May, the Meseta: the high central plateau of Spain: is far from the dry, brown landscape people expect. It is a sea of green wheat and barley, punctuated by millions of red poppies.

As you enter Galicia in June, the landscape shifts. You will ride through "corredoiras" (ancient stone-walled paths) shaded by oak and chestnut trees.

What makes it special?

There is a sense of community on the Camino you won't find anywhere else. You aren't just a tourist; you are a pilgrim. We offer 7, 10, and 14-day touring packs that include everything you need: a high-quality bike, waterproof panniers, and our expert support.

The Flora: Look for the "yellow sea" of broom and gorse in the Galician hills. In the villages, hydrangeas and calla lilies spill over garden walls.

Why Travel Self-Guided?

You want freedom. You don't want to follow a guide's flag or wait for a slow group. You want to stop when you see a particularly beautiful field of wildflowers. You want to linger over that second espresso in a sun-drenched plaza.

That is the beauty of a self-guided tour. You ride at your own pace. You make the decisions.

But independence shouldn't mean a logistical nightmare. That is where we come in. We take the "search" out of research.

We Handle the Logistics

Bike Delivery & Collection: We deliver your bike to your first hotel and pick it up from your last. No hauling bike boxes through airports.

Luggage Shuttle: You carry only what you need for the day. We move your heavy bags from hotel to hotel.

The Best Gear: Choose from our fleet of trekking bikes, gravel bikes, or E-bikes. Our E-bikes are game-changers for the hilly sections of the Basque Country or the Alentejo.

SmartGuide Navigation: Our digital navigation gives you turn-by-turn directions. You won't get lost, and you won't miss the best viewpoints.

Curated Accommodation: We hand-pick small hotels and B&Bs that we love. They are comfortable, charming, and bike-friendly.

Stop Planning and Start Pedaling

Spring doesn't last forever. The wildflowers are waiting, and our most popular dates fill up fast. You don't need months of research to make this happen. You just need to choose your route and show up.

Stop worrying about the maps and the logistics. We have been doing this for years. We are by cyclists, for cyclists. We know exactly what you need for a perfect trip.

Ready to see the blooms for yourself?

Explore our Self-Guided Bike Tours

Don't Miss

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• Camino de Santiago: 7, 10, or 14-Day Options
• Everything You Need to Know About Electric Bike Rentals

Portugal's Rota Vicentina is one of Europe's finest coastal trails — but what's it like to cycle it in the dead of winter? Our good friend John found out as he swapped the summer crowds for storm fronts, deserted terraces, and empty gravel paths as he rode the length of Portugal's Atlantic coast over six days, from Faro to Lisbon. Along the way he tackled brutal climbs, outraced tides, befriended strangers at a New Year's gala, and fell in love with a mystery girl. This is his ride report!

 

Fat is where it's at

I absolutely love this route, it's got something for everyone and can be tailored and tweaked to however you want. Short on time, keep on the tarmac – plenty of time, hit the trails; the best option is to mix it all up and I had the fast-rolling Kona 29MTB the perfect foil! To quote a passing cyclist I met one year: "fat is where it's at." He was pointing at the tyres then, a few years later it's anyone's guess.

I used to call this route the Caminho da Espuma. As a young lad holidaying in the Algarve main resorts there wasn't a night when I wasn't blasted off my clubbing feet by a foam cannon – from Monte Gordo to Carvoeiro, Praia de Rocha, Albufeira, Alvor and Lagos, the Algarve seemed to be drowning in foam parties. It was always a bit bizarre cycling through the once-packed resorts, now chlorinated and quiet.

Thankfully the only foam I now see is when shaving, and whilst this route does skirt the main conurbations, those wider tyres can take you places far from the crowds. And of course, cycling off season makes it even more appealing.

Day 1 — Faro to Carvoeiro

I woke up in my familiar hotel to an unfamiliar sound. It had been a long day yesterday – Newcastle to Amsterdam to Faro – but as I got my bearings it was an "oh no" as I slid open the patio doors: palm trees at 45 degrees, torrential rain, and advertising hoardings and fascias rattling like crazy in the strong wind. And it was cold.

After breakfast I set up the bike and took it outside reception for the final touches. The sideways rain immediately riled me and put me off the six days riding ahead. What should have been a proper and thorough check turned into a 'that'll do' – tyre pressures, pannier ties, top bag, bungees close enough to get through the day. That'll do.

An Aer Lingus plane came into land but held itself at around 500ft and flew right over Faro Airport, not attempting to land this time around. Luckily as I turned west for the first time, the wind was at my back.

At the hiking area Passadiços de Loulé there is a lovely boardwalk skirting the lagoon, but it was treacherously slippy. So with a re-route on the quiet roads it was head down heading west to Quarteira. A collapsed path meant a few hundred metres on the beach and then onto the boulevard to Vilamoura.

A break in the weather allowed me some time to call home and readjust the bike and bags, but it wasn't long before the heavens opened on the soggy stretch to Armação de Pêra. In all my years of riding here it's the first time I've seen the outside terrace at Pastelaria Fortaleza totally deserted.

I arrived at Carvoeiro and popped in to see friends at Algar Seco resort and realised I was shivering with the cold. I've been caught in many a shower in Portugal – we all have – but there was a real chill; my Gorewear jacket was doing well but my shorts were soaked through and my boots were just full of rainwater and my feet were numb.

In the hotel my main aim was to turn on the air-conditioning to maximum heat and find that magical zone of optimal warmth. It meant balancing chairs on tables and manoeuvring the room to strategically position my gear to get dry. It looked like rubbish tetris.

Remember to bring with you a spare 'hotel card' for the room power – if you know, you know!

Day 2 — Carvoeiro to Sagres

I woke to a ridiculously warm room that didn't smell that welcoming either. My boots were hardly touched by my subtropical jet stream – where's a radiator when you need one?

I opened the patio doors to a black morning sky and torrential rain, gushing down the steep Carvoeiro street. The receptionist checked the weather and it looked promising for the afternoon – great news!

After saying my goodbyes and climbing up towards Ferragudo in awful rain, I stopped to take in the vista west to Lagos and beyond and it did look a lot more welcoming. This section has a lot more off-road segments and I didn't want to change the route because of waterlogged fields or slippy rocky sections.

At Portimão, quicker than expected, the weather broke and out came the sunshine. I cycled along the promenade at Praia de Rocha taking photos and saying hello to passing cyclists as everyone's mood was visibly lifted – music on and jacket off. Alvor was gorgeous as always in the sunshine and it was time for a section I had only just discovered.

Before reaching the Skydive Airport I cut over a dam and onto a single-track section flanked by the River Torre on both sides. Popular with hikers, not bikers, it's no challenge at all for skilled MTB riders – but I'm a little more cautious and didn't fancy a comedy roll into the waters. I had loads of foot-faults and my boots were completely full of clarts; the rain had left the route incredibly boggy and difficult to get any traction.

From Alvor it was tarmac to Odiáxere, feet drying out nicely with their new terracotta mud, and it was a lovely ride on the popular cycle route into Lagos.

Last year it was the stunning route to the viewpoint at Praia da Luz following the Rota hiking route along the cliff tops, but this included a terrifying descent into Luz. This year I stayed on the road for a rapid ride into Burgau and a coffee and sandwich in the sun at the fantastic Lokal Padaria.

Shortly after Burgau the climb gave me a lovely view of the Praia da Boca do Rio and a popular off-road gravel section brought me to the pretty town of Salema. The climb out of Salema does register at 16% and the last two times I've had to walk the last section. I'd fancy my chances on an unloaded bike! I met a couple walking downhill who mentioned they always got an Uber back!

Between Burgau and Sagres are three secluded coves – Zavial, Ingrina, and Barranco – which are worth a visit, but with time against me and the rains leaving a lot of waterlogging, I joined the N125 and cycled west into the sun. The 125 at this section has a wide hard shoulder and is very popular with road cyclists. There's even a parallel road if you want to get off the main highway, but I used the tailwind to the max and tore into Bispo for the dedicated bike path to Sagres.

Day 3 — Sagres to Aljezur

A beautiful day's ride north!

From Sagres it was a short hop to the 'end of the world' – Cabo de São Vicente Lighthouse. It was far from 'end of the world' weather though and I stripped down to my t-shirt and made my bragging calls home "in the heatwave." The scattering of tourists in full winter-warmer puffa jackets didn't phase me (I'm from the North East of England man, haway!) as I picked up my cross-country route through the expansive meadows.

If you've got some time, explore the area – the fort and clifftop routes are amazing.

With the sun on my back it was a lovely loop to Bispo, talking to a few hikers and trying to bunny-hop the puddles (massive fail). Note to self: this off-road section could be extended even further.

From Bispo it was tarmac for 10km then back off road on a fab gravel section to Praia do Amado. Sadly the beachfront café was closed and I felt a little apprehensive – there was a big climb coming up and I had no hydration whatsoever. Nonetheless it was a gorgeous ride to Praia da Bordeira where it did get a bit busy swerving the campervans double and treble parked.

Back on the N268 it was a few km, then left-left-left onto the gravel path and back onto the Rota Vicentina proper. The small river had burst its banks and it was a 'feet-up' job to get through – no problems with enough speed – and I climbed up to the farmstead with numerous chained-up mangey dogs that thankfully can't be bothered to run, just bark.

It's another 16% climb after the farm. I was determined to make it all the way but I didn't quite get there. I remembered I had a soaked half-packet of Minto's, so took the time to peel them apart and re-energise for the last 100 metres. Back in the saddle and at that moment a car came round the corner with the occupants enthusiastically shouting "allez! allez!"

Cheers lads, of course I've cycled all the way non-stop. Honest.

With the hardest part over, the undulating gravel path was busy with hikers and group cyclists enjoying the serenity and glistening ocean view. It's always nice to stop and say hello and swap stories… how come none are going in my direction? They've got it easy with that 16% descent!

My second pit-stop for a drink was also closed for the day – if this was high season I would be in a bit of a tight spot, but luckily it wasn't far to go. Leaving the gravel path I rejoined the 268 for a rapid 10km ride downhill into Aljezur. The Rota does continue off road but I feel rejoining the carriageway at Chabouco gives a good balance of surface v time. Maybe one day I'll stay all off road.

The only obstacle at Aljezur was a gully that was flooded (on Google Maps it's bone dry!) but thankfully a new-ish footbridge over the water hinted that it was nothing new.

My first pint at Aljezur was amazing! Allez!

Day 4 — Aljezur to Vila Nova de Milfontes

It was all on road today, with a 17% climb to look forward to.

Heading north from Aljezur I stopped at my usual resting place to lose some clothing after a fresh crisp morning climb to Rogil, then downhill to Odeceixe, over the Ribeira de Seixe, and… welcome to Alentejo!

The N120 doesn't have a hard shoulder but traffic was light, as always, and it was only 5km or so before I turned off towards the coast and Praia do Carvalhal. Just before the descent to the beach I made sure to say hello to the ostriches!

I spoke to a Finnish couple who were vanning in the area before the big climb from the secluded beach, hitting the 17%'er. It's stirring stuff but at only 300 metres in length it's totally winnable. With nobody around I wobbled and weaved my way to the top, not caring what I looked or sounded like.

Levelling out, it's a nice ride past all the blueberry greenhouses to Zambujeira do Mar. I met a couple of Polish motor bikers and after some forced conversation where all we talked about was 'beer / piwo', I climbed up to the church for lovely coastal views.

North of Zambujeira, just before the sharp dog-leg for all routes, I carried on for 200 metres for the most amazing views. Wow!

Zig-zagging on quiet roads to Cavaleiro and then Almograve, I stopped at O Lavrador for a coffee and, as usual, baked on the sun-trap terrace. I don't know how I resisted getting a beer, but I did!

The new bike path has now been completed from Almograve, but there is also a well-signposted hiking route heading to the same destination – a bit too sandy for bikes though. I headed through the compact streets of Longueira, smelling the delicious food from local houses, before picking up the N393 main road to Milfontes. Again there was a big hard shoulder to ride in, making it easy to stop on the Ponte de Vila Nova de Milfontes and enjoy the views over the Mira.

Shortly afterwards I was at my destination for the evening in the vibrant and welcoming town.

Day 5 — Vila Nova de Milfontes to Costa de Santo André

New Year's Eve!

After a huge buffet breakfast it was all roads north. For the first time in a long time I was chased by a dog – a huge mountain herder dog thing that had a thick chain tethered to fresh air. Luckily it gave up the chase after 20 metres or so and I was able to enjoy the beautiful sunny ride to Santo André.

It's an undulating ride on the CM1072 with a lot of cyclists out that day, enjoying a pre-party ride in the glorious weather. It was only 10km before turning off for the gravel section towards Praia do Queimado and the impressive fort and Pessegueiro Island Beach. Wishing a few German campervanners a Happy New Year, it went from tarmac to sand then sea-shore as I just about beat the tide and into Porto Covo.

I spent a few minutes cycling around Porto Covo (last year I went into the market – it was amazing) then hit the M1109, passing the countless beaches to the outskirts of Sines. There were at least a dozen oil tankers moored at sea, such is the importance of the terminal. I took my usual 'sneaky' route through the terminal buildings and into Sines, weaving in between the road markings singing my head off. The terminal is always quiet with the winter lockdown.

The Repsol New Year's Eve (A Flashback)

I have stayed in Sines a few times, but last year I stayed in Santo André and had the most bizarre New Year's Eve ever.

My hotel was asking an eye-watering amount for the main event and I really couldn't justify the outlay. I was promised via email that I could still access the bar but not the main event – fair enough – but come the night I was allowed only "1 drink" and I was asked to leave.

So at 7pm I found myself all dressed up with one place to go: Repsol. Yes, I had my own party-in-a-petrol-station at a table for one, wedged between the Superbock fridge and WD40 stand.

By throwing-out time – 9pm – I had made good friends with the attendant and bought what was left in the fridge along with some snacks for my after-petrol party. She even loaned me a posh bottle opener to bring back the next day.

Scowling at reception and the in-crowd in their cummerbunds and party frocks, I got to my room then realised I didn't have a kettle for my pot noodle. I headed back down to reception, and they begrudgingly let me use the ladies' toilets – which had a baby-change facility annex – to boil the kettle for my feast for one. Back in my room I somehow managed to eat a pot noodle with a tiny plastic fork (that's all I could find in the baby room) and sank my beers watching Star Wars in Portuguese.

This Year: Redemption

This year I was determined either to have a quiet night with nature – in bed by 9, up at 6, that type of thing – or something a bit special, if the price is right. And special it was!

I cycled around Sines on the great cycle paths then crossed over the A26-1 motorway and finally got a 'beep beep' from a passing trucker (if you know, you know) and at Santo André popped into the Repsol garage where the lady recognised me and we had a good laugh about last year. Don't worry, I already returned the bottle opener!

But this year I did have something planned. I cycled a few kilometres north to Aldeia de Brescos and had a beer at the absolutely rammed Café Arsénio before freewheeling to the Hilton Hotel, Costa de Santo André. It was 5pm and the rosy winter sun was beginning to set.

The Hilton only opened in July and emailed me the details for their NYE party, which was very reasonably priced. I was met with open arms and I must say it's probably one of the best customer service experiences ever, unlike the coldness last year. "Welcome John, how was the ride John" – I wasn't pushed along despite the fact I was in my scruffy cycling gear. Just lovely. And my room – wow.

The Party

I had asked for my table at the main event to be a bit inconspicuous, known as the Capone Chair – on the edge, able to see everyone and everything. Not because I was expecting any mob activity, but because I'd probably make a fool of myself eating an oyster, use the wrong cutlery, or god forbid get singled out by a singer or hypnotist. But tonight I was safe – nothing more than an '80s theme' party.

Everyone looked very smart and the only 80s theme 'costume' I saw was a man dressed up as Woody from Toy Story. I googled to find out the film didn't come out until 1995 – so maybe he was a real cowboy? Was I actually right in getting the Capone Chair?

One course into seven and I was quickly adopted by Luis and his extended family and spent the night in wonderful company. "You are English, come and join us, you should not be alone." I had probably used the wrong fork with my octopus and given it away. His extended family and friends all bunched up to squeeze me in and we spent the night eating, drinking, and laughing.

Mystery Girl

But I had also noticed someone else that night, a little earlier at the bar, and it was love at first sight. I had no idea who she was, but she was with her family and looked stunning – and it had nothing to do with the free bar or oysters.

Could I get past my stand-offishness and shyness to say hello? Would I be penning a happy-ever-after diary?

Alas, I guess it wasn't meant to be. It's a family occasion after all, and I didn't speak to her because the moment didn't arise. If only it had been a foam party…

At 02:30 I remember dancing to Elton John and Kiki Dee – "Don't Go Breaking My Heart" – quite apt really, as I retired to my room when Luis and his family went looking for another bar open until 05:00.

But I was to see her one more time.

Day 6 — Costa de Santo André to Lisboa

I was the first down for breakfast at 07:00 and, unsurprisingly, a little worse for wear. Two visits to the buffet breakfast, I maxed out on the most amazing sausages and got myself ready for the longest ride of the tour – which included two ferries.

As I was checking out I crossed paths with my mystery girl, who had been out for a jog. "Feliz ano novo," I managed. She smiled and walked to the lifts.

And that, was that.

Whether I was love-struck, still drunk, or fuelled by sausage – or all three – I managed my highest average speed as I bombed towards the Comporta cut-off point for the 1pm ferry. Head down, no-frills cycling. There was no time for any breaks or photo stops and I picked up the pace along the Tróia peninsula to the ferry landing for the trip to Setúbal.

Last year I had an extra day so went to Sesimbra – it was the most crazy of New Year's Day rides, both getting in and getting out. This year it was straight to Montijo for the second ferry of the day. I had picked a new route and it worked out very well, avoiding a tricky roundabout adjoining the A2. Catching the first ferry at 1pm meant I had four hours to cover the 30km and I ambled through Palmela Gare and Pinhal Novo with a couple of coffee breaks on the way.

I made it to Montijo bang on time for the short trip across the Tagus and a few km later I was at my hotel for two days in Lisboa – and the end of my trip.

What's Next?

This summer I will be cycling in Poland, with no plans for the winter as of yet. Maybe I'll do another Rota Vicentina ride and maybe she will be there again at Costa de Santo André. Who knows what 2026/27 will bring.

To infinity and beyond, as they say in Melides!