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Blog 

Once upon a time in Andalucía - A Bike Travel Tale

5/30/2019

1 Comment

 
Cyclist on a mountain road in Andalucia in southern Spain
Going to Andalucia in southern Spain is like stepping back in time. Much of the rich, quintessential Spanish identity is deeply rooted in this part of the country. Classic Spanish clichés such as Flamenco, cold gazpacho soup and bullfighting all come from in this part of the country. 

In Southern Spain you can ride our Andalucian Adventure taking you from Cordoba to Granada through fields of sunflowers, endless olive tress and snowcapped mountains. 

Seductive Flamenco, flowered patios, twisting 'old town' alleyways and magnificent cathedrals and palaces highlight your stays along the way. You'll be able to visit the timeless monuments to the Moor's magnificent culture including the breathtaking medieval mosque in Córdoba and the ethereal Alhambra Palace in Granada.
Alhambra palace at night in Granada

Córdoba

Córdoba has always been my favorite of the 3 great Moorish cities in Spain - Sevilla and Granada bring the other two.  It has an intimate charm to it that immediately seduces you. Being smaller than the other two is part of it. Everything is near or around the Mosque and is within easy walking distance.  You can clearly see the vestiges of the 3 great religions nestled side by side- Jewish, Moorish and Christian, not to mention, 4 great civilizations - Roman, Visigoth, Moorish and Christian.   

A good time to visit is early May when you will catch the Fiesta de Los Patios, where the Cordobese people open their house to the public and you can see close up the beautifully tended, lush, vibrant gardens contained inside the central patios of homes in the Jewish quarter and throughout the Old Town.

In Cordoba:
  • Visit the Mezquita-Catedral, the Great Mosque of Cordoba.  This is one of the oldest structures still standing from the time Muslims ruled Al-Andalus (which included most of Spain, Portugal, and a small section of Southern France) from the early 8th century to 1492.  The first time I walked into the Mosque/ Mezquita it quite literally took my breath away. Truly something you have to see to believe.
  • Try kayaking on the Guadalquivir and take a photo from a pylon ON the Roman bridge!
  • Eat outside at one of the fabulous restaurants along the river, or in a traditional taberna in the winding streets of the old town. 
  • Order salmorejo, a cold thick tomato soup similar to Gazpacho but with a creamier finish.
  • Try Montilla-Moriles, the local wine that is similar to sherry. It certainly packs a punch but goes well with local tapas such as Garbanzos con espinacas [chickpeas with spinach] and Flamenquines [slices of ham, stuffed with cheese and fried], Alcachofas a la Montillana [artichokes with pork loin in a seasoned dry sherry sauce].

Bicycles parked outside the walls of the Catherdral Mosque of Cordoba in Andalucia in southern Spain
View of the cathedral and mosque over the river guadalquivir in Cordoba in Andalucia

Baena

Along the route you’ll visit a famous olive oil mill in Baena run by a family who own around 100,000 olive trees. Olives are hand-picked to prevent bruising, then pulped in ancient stone mills. Núñez de Prado is one of the few operations in Spain that uses this traditional pulping method, and is famous for its flor de aceite, the oil that seeps naturally from the un-crushed olives. 
Old olive oil vats at Nunez de prado oilve oil mill in Baena in Andalucia

Priego de Córdoba

From Baena, you will ride south following the edge of the wild Parque Subbética hills, to Priego de Córdoba a town famous for its quiet beauty and home to some of the most stunning Baroque churches in all of Spain. Priego is also home to a recently-renovated Moorish castle, whilst the town’s oldest neighbourhood, Barrio de la Villa, perches on the top of a cliff from where truly humbling views of the Subbéticas Natural Park can be enjoyed.  

A dish local to Priego is Revuelto de Collejas, a green vegetable similar to silverbeet or spinach, scrambled with eggs and garlic, often served with jamón. Look out for it on menus at La Pianola Casa Pepe or in the Hotel Zahori Restaurant.

On the way to Granada:
  • You'll ride down to the Vega, the fertile plain west of Granada, characterized by gently rolling countryside full of asparagus fields and dotted with wildflowers, passing quiet little villages with views of the beautiful snow-capped Sierra Nevada in the distance. You will also ride by many tobacco plantations and shamies (little huts for drying the leaves) as you get closer to Granada.
Group of cyclists in Priego de Cordoba in Andalucia in Spain
Picture

Montefrio

Your ride now takes you through the very wild and sparsely inhabited area of the northern Granada Province. Many of our participants consider this the most beautiful ride of the trip. Pause in Montefrio for a photo at the National Geographic Lookout, and then have lunch at the lively terrace of Jomay bar in town.
Cyclist climbing in Montefrio in Andalucia in Spain

Fuente Vaqueros

Your last day of biking as you ride toward the fabled Moorish city of Granada.  Finishing in Fuente Vaqueros at the Garcia Lorca museum where you can learn about the astonishing life (and death) of Federico García Lorca, Spain's most beloved poet.
Touring bicycle parked in Fuente Vaqueros at the Grcia Lorca monument
The Andalucían Adventure is best taken in April/May or September/October. Contact us for more information and pricing.

Vanya Maplestone

Vanya is a part-time cycling guide who has been to Andalucía more times than she can count on one hand. Lucky for her, she loves tapas, rolling hills and olive trees.

1 Comment
Caroline
2/20/2020 09:21:49 am

Wonderful descriptions ! We want to do several adventures this year.

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