Three good reasons to go to Girona

Catalonia's lesser known city with endless charm beckons

Image by Irene Lasus Almirón from Pixabay

In some ways it is a shame that Girona is lesser known than Barcelona, its Catalonian neighbouring city only 40 minutes away, but perhaps that is what makes it such a wonderful discovery - when you make it. If you want to explore more than Barcelona's well worn tourist traps, the medieval old town and the wider Girona province will surprise and delight. If you are already considering a visit to the less frequented Catalan metropolis, read on, you will find more than enough reasons to get in now before the word gets out!

Image: Enrique Díaz ©

1. The Cycling

Home to many current (and retired) pro cyclists, this area has everything you need for endless riding pleasure, here you will find mountains, rolling hills, epic seascapes, lush apple orchards, even volcanic craters. Home to some very famous climbs, Girona province is the training ground for many cycling teams and individuals alike. Professional cyclists like Robert Gesink (Jumbo-Visma), Dan Martin (UAE - Team Emirates), Ashleigh Moolman Pasio (CCC-Liv) all call the Girona region home, and for good reason, the area is busting with challenging climbs and long, rolling, quiet roads.

Three famous climbs near Girona:

Els Angels
Stats: 10.1km, 3%, 344m, Category 2

• Only 10 minutes out of Girona, this ride takes some twists and turns up a quiet, leafy forest road featuring hairpins, downhills, flat and fast sections, and a few short steep rises. The big crucifix marks the official summit for cyclists, but you should continue up toward the Santuari dels Àngels church (where Salvador Dali was married) and take in the sweeping view of the surrounding terrain.

Mare de Déu del Mont
Stats: 18.5km, 5%, 919m, Category: HC

• With a spectacular 360 degree view that includes the peaks of the Pyrenees and Costa Brava coastline on a clear day, there aren’t many better cycling climbs in Catalonia. Two roads will get you there, the least popular (and slightly longer) going through Besalu or the approach via Cabanelles, with both roads converging for the final 7 kilometres. At the 13km point, you will have an exposed section and a 500m flat/downhill - so take in the view and prepare for your final ascent! At the top, make sure you park your bike and venture up to the church and cafe so you can get the whole 360 experience (and rest your legs!).

Rocacorba
Stats: 10.7km, 7%, 742m, Category 1

• A legendary climb, in anyone's books. Used for over a decade by many local pros as a testing climb, the famous mountain is a challenge to all who ride it. The 10.7 kilometre climb has a deceptive overall gradient of 7%, with sections of up to 11% and the final half averaging 9%, this ride will require disciplined pacing but is a must for any cyclist exploring the Girona area. A quiet, tree-lined road is popular for the pro and weekend warrior alike, and if you do ride it on the weekend, reward yourself with a coffee and a cupcake from Rocacorba Food Truck on your way down. 
  
  

For the relaxed scenic rider, you will find bike paths linking the mountains to the sea and lots of pretty medieval villages to explore, rest your legs and find an ice-cream or cold drink along the way.

Image: Enrique Díaz ©

2. The Costa Brava

For more than 50 years, holidaymakers have flocked to the Costa Brava, drawn by its perfect summer weather, golden beaches and multitude of attractions ranging from the Dalí Theatre and Museum in Cadaques to the Greek and Roman ruins at Empúries. While overdevelopment has tarnished some of the pristine coastline (the resort of Lloret de Mar accommodates 200,000 tourists at its summer peak), north of Palamós it takes on a quieter, more authentic feel and golden sands give way to the rocky, rugged landscape of cliffs, inlets and hairpin bends that gives the Costa Brava its name: the “rough” or “wild” coast. Here, a collection of small towns (Begur, Tamariu, Palafrugell, L’Estartit, Aigua Blava, Llafranc) have retained their Catalan charm, each set on a sheltered cove and often boasting a rustic seafood restaurant where the day’s catch can be enjoyed fresh, cooked over the coals.

Image by Lloyd Cl from Pixabay

Image by falco from Pixabay

3. The Food

A mecca for foodies with 20 Michelin stars in the province of Girona, you can eat some of the best food in the world here. El Celler de Can Roca is a restaurant in Girona, opened in 1986 by the Roca brothers, Joan, Josep and Jordi. It was first located next to their parents' restaurant Can Roca, but moved to its current location in 2007. It has been received warmly by critics, and holds three Michelin stars. In 2018, El Celler de Can Roca stood at No.2 in the World’s 50 best restaurants, having earned the number 1 spot twice in its history. This year (2019) one of the Roca brothers, Jordi, is opening a chocolate factory and 15 room boutique hotel in Girona’s Plaça de Catalunya. 

Image: visionsgourmandes.com

You can also visit their ice-cream shop, Rocambolesc, on Carrer de Santa Clara, a quirky space resembling a mad scientist’s lab. You can sample their unique flavours of ice cream (Baked Apple or Mandarin, Passionfruit and Orange Blossom sorbet) or take a tub home to enjoy at your own pace. After your ride from L’Estartit through endless Medieval villages you could probably indulge in a Panet, a brioche bun filled with your favourite ice-cream and toppings, toasted shut in their custom made toaster oven.

If you can’t get a booking at El Celler De Can Roca (currently a 12 month waiting list!) try one of these locally-loved spots.

6 Innovative and Unique Restaurants found both on and off the Catalonia Girona Bike Tour

1. La Calendula, Regenços - A beautiful kitchen garden and landscaped grounds are the setting for a colourful and inventive meal, hosted by your chef Iolanda Bustos, who believes in connecting the diner to nature through her modern, biodynamic food.
   
2. Ca la Pilar, Girona - for Catalan comfort food in a fine dining setting. Adventurous diners can taste cod tripe with artichokes and green peas – or if you’re feeling daring and want to surprise your palate, the pig snout and pig ear with chickpeas. 
   
3. Compartir, Cadaques - the freshest regional seafood elevated to form a memorable meal. Sister restaurant to Disfrutar, Barcelona, currently number 9 on The 50 best restaurants of the world, this place is a phenomenally accessible restaurant serving the freshest seasonal food in creative ways to everyone from sandy tourists fresh off the beach to the high flying Costa Brava set.
   
4. Cal Ros, Girona - An elegant and airy space, in the old town, dine at round tables under the large stone arches on a big plate of Palamós prawns or an Arros Meloso, the soupier version of Paella typical to this region of Spain.
   
5. La Quinta Justa, Olot - Sampling the Volcanic cuisine, unique to the area of La Garrotxa is a must when you visit Olot. A great place for lunch with the Menu Del Dia at only 14.10€, you can try rabbit with samfaina or a fava bean stew with chunks of black botifarra.
   
6. Cal Tet, L’Estartit - A rustic seaside bar serving up fish and seafood arriving from small boats, presented fresh and simply cooked over embers, just on its own. There’s a  reasonably priced tapas menu, too. Typical dishes are fish skewers, clams, fried squid, grilled octopus, barnacles (percebes) or cod. 
   
   

Image by jim_ from Pixabay

Curious to discover this little gem? Find out more here.

Vanya Maplestone

Vanya is a part-time cycling tour guide with a deep affinity for Catalonia, having relocated from Australia 5 years ago, she now makes her home in the heartland of Spain's cycling Mecca.